chaad’s wine blog

‘04 La Viarte Pinot Bianco—very pale color, faintly woody aromas, and a light, finely wrought palate. Decent intensity with mineral notes and citrus tang. Shortish on the finish, but not bad, and in all, a well done pinot bianco. $21

‘04 Dessilani Dolcetto d’Alba—fresh, small, dark berry and a bit of stemminess on the nose. The flavor profile is pretty lean, kinda tannic, but has a bit of sweet currant in there. Decent body, but it lacks dimension. Not a very good QPR at $16.50

‘03 Bruno Porro Barbera—darkly colored, with big aromas of red flowers, alcohol, and sweet cherry. Freshly fruited, vigorous, and earthy showing good length on the finish. A solid execution, but not convincing. $17.35

‘01 Dessilani Spanna Riserva—medium garnet color, and interesting smells: raisin, undefined flowers, black currants, and alcohol. Palate is forward and ripe, with some complexity and an herbal/green earthiness. Tapers towards the finish, with purple flowers reemerging. Seems a bit disconnected. $20.85

‘00 Dessilani Caramino Riserva—very dark, and very aromatic, with herbed berry, black pepper, tar and alcohol. In the mouth it’s stern and leathery, but delivers lots of detail and savory complexity. A real lipsmacker, too, with firming acidity. Long on the finish, this tastes like a real thoroughbred, and is loaded with originality. Very good, and would be killer at $ 30, but alas, it’s $41.75.

‘o4 Castelvero Cortese—this pretty, green-tinged white from Piemonte was a delight! The honeyed white flower, lime and melon aromas were bright and engaging, and the progression to palate was a perfect echo of those aromas. The fruit was fresh, the scale moderate, and finished with a surprising touch of mandarin orange. This was a well done wine, ideal for aperitivo duty, or lighter salads and fish. $10.95 retail.

‘03 Astibarbera Barbera d’Asti “Claudius”—medium garnet color, and a mid-powered nose showing mostly cherry and light wood. On the palate, it’s midweight but balanced, showing ripe black cherry fruit and uplifting raciness. Classically styled, it shows the refinement of cask aging without sacrificing livliness. I liked this a lot. From Piedmont. $12.90

‘03 Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo— very dark reflective purple, and a nosefilling aromatic profile that reminds of braised meat and licorice root. The entry is supple, and it’s quite full on the palate, but the absence of fruit is striking. There’s a slightly astringent berry tone, but it stays singular, right through to the finely tannic, mildly bitter finish. Disappointing, though the texture is wonderful. $19

‘99 Shardana—this comes from Sardegna (carries appellation Valle di Porto Pino), from the Santadi co-op. It is carignano, and brings a big, richly oaky nose to the game. The palate is intense with dried fruit, leather, black pepper, and licorice, and it runs deep. The amplitude is impressive and the structure is there for many more years to come. Thickly textured, this delivers right through to an herb (tarragon?) tinged red berry and prune finish. It’s ripe and quite fruity, but has power and heat enough to be taken seriously. Very good wine, with a rustic demeanor. $27

‘01 Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino— very dark, the crushed berry aromas and alcohol come easy to nose. The entry is midweight, surprisingly round, and graceful, and the fruit swings between grapey and berry, giving the wine a bramble character. Then, suddenly, the flavors make a dog-leg turn on the finish, going momentarily bitter, an effect that never quite disappears and ruins this good thing. Was on track to be solid, but the finish is a stopper. Too bad. $25

The Alto Adige region of northern Italy has an interesting situation going: it’s as much German as it is Italian, and the label on this bottle brings that cultural pluralism to mind.

One might read this as grauvernatsch, or as schiava grigia, and the winery might be read as Kellerei Terlan or Cantina Terlano, from the town of Terlan or Terlano in the Sudtirol or Alto Adige. I chose the more Germanic indicators, as they are most prominently featured, and because the producers obviously identify with that part of their heritage rather strongly.

But to the wine, this is quite light in color, and the nose is decidedly grapey, with a touch of sour cherry hard candy. The taste reflects the aromas, delivering a bit more heavily on the sour cherry. It’s very light on the palate, and the wine is delicate and simple, offering straightforward, unembellished red berry fruit.

Not that it is bad, but it is certainly underwhelming if you’re looking for impact. If you’re looking for an unobtrusive, easy drinking red that calls to mind the dining mores of the steep Adige valley, then this is perfect! Bring some speck (smoked ham) and graukase (spiced ricotta) to the table, and you’ve got the fixin’s for a real rustic, Alpine meal.

That said, the wine is rather unremarkable….

Tasting the Wines of Felsina

Apparently, Felsina has got a new USA importer, and thankfully for us, that means wider availability and better pricing! Located in Chianti, in Castelnuovo Berardenga, I’ve always liked Felsina for their gentler, more supple style, but I haven’t tried them for several years. Here’s what I found recently…

‘03 Chardonnay “I Sistri” — very pale in color, with a weak nose of wood and citrus. The palate is supple, and delivers a ripe yet elegant sampling of apple. It’s a bit delicate, but definitely shows some pedigree with abundant detail, and comes off as rather Burgundian. The finish is long and tasty, walking the line between earth and fruit. Pretty good stuff, and when the retail of approximately $17 is factored in, it looks even better yet!

‘03 Chianti Classico — medium dark, with a warming, sophisticated fruit-and-barrel nose. Full on the palate, it shows supple berry fruit and a touch of spice. It’s fairly soft, but stays fresh despite that. Quite good, and a standout in Chianti for its plush hand. $17 retail. Good value here.

‘01 Chianti Classico Riserva — warm, almosty meaty nose, with soft blackberry all over it. Midweight palate, good acidity, ripe fruit, and a bit of spice give this a more classical Chianti profile, but the bounty of fruit makes it a very good example of the category, though not quite outstanding. $20.

‘01 Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” — overt oak on the nose, with a whiff of that plasticky barrel quality. Nice woodsy fruit, though, and the concentration overcomes the slightly oxidative note that runs through it. Feels aristocratic and old-timey, but oddly vigorous. Good, unique style. $28.

‘99 Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” — sporting a slightly watery meniscus and dull garnet hue, the nose on this is clearly marked by barrel ageing and that sherry-like oxidative note. The palate is supple and generous with savory-tinged berry fruit, and the long finish shows exemplary detail. With the right dish –and I’m thinking some kind of braised meat stew, it should be quite an aristocratic pairing. Has a definite style, and I can see some lovin’ it, or some just thinking it old. $30.

‘01 Fontalloro — medium garnet, with a big, perfumed nose of dark berry, red flowers, and toast. Entry is restrained, and while it delivers with elegance, it lacks impact. The fruit core is solid, and the structure is clearly delineated, but it stops short of bringing the concentration I’d like to see, so no “wow.” Nice, maybe even very nice, but for $34, that’s about the extent of it. I can’t help but wonder if the bottle is off, but it does fit into the Felsina house style…

‘99 Maestro Raro — fairly dark, and smellin’ great! Herb and green pepper underlay black pepper and smoky oak aromas. The attack is formidable, and it goes deep fast, while the acidity and rich, rich cassis and blueberry fruit hold fast to the frame. The finish is very long and super savory, with a perfect–absolutely perfect–balance of ultrafine tannins. Integration of these components is seamless, and I’ve had to revisit it several times even to paint a picture with this much detail… An excellent wine (all cab sauv, by the way) of certain pedigree and authority. $37, now that’s a hell of a deal for this quality.

‘97 Vin Santo — big nose of honeyed, toasted nusts, elderflower, and dried apricot. Thick palate with plenty of sweetness, but also good definition and complexity. Notes of golden raisin round out the flavor profile, while acidity sweeps ’round to keep it alive and engaging. Very good. 500ml, $29.50.

Bea is legendary, but I’ve not had this wine before, only their Sagrantino di Montefalco (the ‘00 of which is mindbending). The Rosso Riserva is, according to the informative label, 60% sangiovese, 25% montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and 15% sagrantino, aged in stainless steel “botti” (large casks) for 24 months, French barriques for 12 months, and finally in bottle for 12 months. Quite the saga, eh?

The color is on the garnet side of things, with a pale meniscus. The aroma however, is WOW!

I’m goin’ with dried figs in herbed meat broth seasoned with crushed berries, cardamom, cedar and licorice. This is one of those rare wines whose nose keeps me intrigued for minutes; I can’t stop smelling it.

Then it attacks, hitting the mouth with a good deal of intensity and bracing acidity. It’s not heavy, but it’s packed with savory goodness and plenty of racy berry fruit. Finely tannic, it displays some real staying power and lots of complexity (what’s this, a bit of roasted coffee bean? Some molasses?). It’s equally savory as it is fruity, and the finish is long, long, long, friends.

Wowzers, this bottle rocks! If I had a chunk of braised beef right now, I’d be in hog Heaven…

Pricing is no joke: expect about $70 retail here in MI. Forgive me, but it may be worth it.

It’s also worth noting the use of “montepulciano d’Abruzzo” on the label as a constituent variety. I’ve never seen the grape referred to as such, only the wine, but of course this is all estate fruit, indicated as being from the Vigna Pipparello (and ergo, not from Abruzzo). Anyway, I wonder if Bea is making a distinction between various montepulcianos, or if he’s just stating the source of his vines. A small point, in any event.

Generally speaking, I really like Washington state wines. Particularly the Bordeaux blends, like those from Seven Hills, Delille, and Matthews, which come easily to mind.

With that in mind, tonight I opened this bottle of ‘03 Hedges 3 Vineyards (which are indicated on the label as being Bel’Villa, RMV, and Hedges. It’s a blend of 40% cab sauv, 56% merlot, 3% cab franc, and 1% syrah, acheiving 14% alcohol.

Dark and lovely, the aromas remind of those jelly black raspberry candies, with a touch of smoky oak barrel. It’s full and finely tannic right up front, and perhaps a bit reticent about following it up with the fruit, but it does eventually come. Mostly that black raspberry, but some nice black cherry, too. It feels cool, well-built and ripe, so perhaps the complexity it lacks now will be forthcoming after a bit more age. The finish is dominated by tannic dryness, but a bit of medicinal cherry crops up in there too, throwing the show off. Impressive persistence, though.

I have no idea as to the cost–it was a gift–but it’s worth a solid $20 to my palate, and it would be nice to have a few bottles to sock away in the cellar. I think it will prove to be a delight in just a few more years.

Check ‘em out at www.hedgesfamilyestate.com

I’m gonna stop short of saying that being more diligent in posting my tasting notes was a New Year resolution (that way, I figure, I’m less likely to lapse back into laziness!), but I’m certainly making the effort, particularly with the weekly tastings I host in the restaurant. I taste alot in general, and I don’t think that I could possibly post everything, so I’m focusing on the regular events.

Tonight’s lineup:

‘04 ca’ montini sauvignon “l’aristocratico” (trentino)
$17 notes: nice golden amber, with a distinct nose of ruby grapefruit. Midweight and nicely textured on the palate, it reveals a ripeness of fruit as well as mineral detail. Great concentration, and a long, well-balanced finish. Very good!

‘03 terredavino barbera d’asti (piemonte)
$11.25 notes: med-bright garnet, with woodsy cherry aromas. Palate is juicy and generous with tart cherry fruit, but has characteristic acidity. Finish trails off quickly, but the impression is of a lively, fresh, and somewhat simple, rustic wine. Nicely done overall, and definitely a quaffer.

’98 rocca di sodone chianti classico riserva (toscana)
$23.35 notes: muted aromas, dominated by a reductive, warm plastic-like scent. The palate is delicate, but moderately zesty with savory-tinged blackberry and the warming spice of licorice on the shortish finish. A nice Chianti, but a bit underpowered and underdeveloped. For the money, I’d like more.

’00 terredavino barolo (piemonte)
$30.80 notes: Mmm, classic proportion to the aromas here, with a bit of tarriness, earthiness, leatheriness, and some red flower notes. The palate is taut and warm, with the spiced cherry glow typical to Barolo. The finish is long and detailed, and appropriate for such a muscular, slightly edgy wine. This should age beautifully, and is a good buy in Barolo. Very good.

‘01 terredavino barolo “la mora” (piemonte)
$35 notes: Darkly colored, and not much Barolo on the nose here. Something like overripe or syrupy fruit comes to the fore. The palate is full, lush, and rather soft, with an herbaceous green tinge to some pretty ripe fruit. Very upfront, and takes a preciptious descent from there. Not much Barolo character all ’round, and kinda strange for it. A disappointing wine.

Earlier in the day, I tasted two:

‘04 Descendiented de J. Palacios Bierzo “Petalos”– fairly dark, with a distinctly grapey, dry smelling nose. The palate follows perfectly, with more grapey, black fruit and a fair amount of acidity and sweet tannins. The finish is a surprise, as the fruit reveals an ash note that morphs into ripe blackberry and oak…. very interesting! I like it, and it’s a far sight better than the last Bierzo I tasted from these folks, the ‘00. Should retail around $18, making this a good buy.

and

‘04 Poggio Bidini Nero d’Avola– dark, with lots of black cherry on the nose, with a soft, fragrant strawberry flower flavor profile. Pretty wine, but a touch too floral for my tastes. Easy drinking, though. Good, and about $12 retail.

So, my first wine of ‘06 turns out to be… a drum roll, please… ‘99 Nozzole “Il Pareto”. (Actually, I guess there was some bubbly last night, but I overindulged a tad, so those don’t count! Mostly Ferrari Rose, iirc).

Okay, so this wine is completely opaque, with a whisper of dark garnet at the rim. The aromas are immediately of crushed blueberries, blackberries, and the like, but there’s also the toasty, dark roasted coffee notes typical of barrique aged cab sauv (which this is). Maybe a touch of cranberry and eucalyptus in there, too; in short, it smells great. The attack is focused and dense, with layers of rich, dark fruit, focused acidity, and some serious tannin. This is built and very ripe, with nary any of the herbal notes that often surface in cab sauv. No, just miles of ripe, saturated fruit. Beautifully detailed, this guy is just getting in stride, and could use a few years to “resolve” these tannins. The finish is very long and fruity, sporting etheral oak highlights. Impressive to awesome. I just might finish this one tonight…

I was just introduced to this producer, Terre da Vino, a Piedmont winery that makes Barolo and Barbaresco (at least these are the only two I tasted).

‘00 Barbaresco–has a “correct” nose, with the moist clay and vegetal notes I expect along with faint floral suggestions. On the palate, though light, it gains amplitude quickly, with a nice balance of red fruits and earthiness, and a nice rosy glow on the finish. It lacks some evolution, but is otherwise quite good. A typical example of solid Barbaresco.

‘01 Barolo–the nose is quiet on this one, but hides a really nice mouthful of tarry berry anand cherry with classical leathery notes. This is well-built and ready to cellar! With a bit of age, it should come together and be just gorgeous.

Both are sub $30, and as such represent good (Barbaresco) and great (Barolo) values. I’ll definitely be offering the Barolo in the restaurant!

There’s a website: www.terredavino.com

TN: ‘03 Le Caselle Syrah “Tuttosole” (Toscana)

Very darkly colored, with a subdued nose vaguely suggestive of bramble. Supple entry quickly gives way to a firm palate, medium body, and grippy tannins. The blackberry fruit core seems tight and unrevealing, but gives promise of more generous days to come. About $28 retail.

Not bad, but not suggestive of the gorgeous syrahs of the Rhone, which I love. As with many other Italian (esp. Tuscan) syrahs, this comes off as chunky and monotlithic, devoid of nuance. I’d thought it was an age issue, and may still be, but recent tastings of 99 Fontodi Case Via and 01 D’Alessandro Il Bosco suggest that they either don’t develop or do so very slowly. We’ll see!