Tasting the Wines of Felsina

Apparently, Felsina has got a new USA importer, and thankfully for us, that means wider availability and better pricing! Located in Chianti, in Castelnuovo Berardenga, I’ve always liked Felsina for their gentler, more supple style, but I haven’t tried them for several years. Here’s what I found recently…

‘03 Chardonnay “I Sistri” — very pale in color, with a weak nose of wood and citrus. The palate is supple, and delivers a ripe yet elegant sampling of apple. It’s a bit delicate, but definitely shows some pedigree with abundant detail, and comes off as rather Burgundian. The finish is long and tasty, walking the line between earth and fruit. Pretty good stuff, and when the retail of approximately $17 is factored in, it looks even better yet!

‘03 Chianti Classico — medium dark, with a warming, sophisticated fruit-and-barrel nose. Full on the palate, it shows supple berry fruit and a touch of spice. It’s fairly soft, but stays fresh despite that. Quite good, and a standout in Chianti for its plush hand. $17 retail. Good value here.

‘01 Chianti Classico Riserva — warm, almosty meaty nose, with soft blackberry all over it. Midweight palate, good acidity, ripe fruit, and a bit of spice give this a more classical Chianti profile, but the bounty of fruit makes it a very good example of the category, though not quite outstanding. $20.

‘01 Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” — overt oak on the nose, with a whiff of that plasticky barrel quality. Nice woodsy fruit, though, and the concentration overcomes the slightly oxidative note that runs through it. Feels aristocratic and old-timey, but oddly vigorous. Good, unique style. $28.

‘99 Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” — sporting a slightly watery meniscus and dull garnet hue, the nose on this is clearly marked by barrel ageing and that sherry-like oxidative note. The palate is supple and generous with savory-tinged berry fruit, and the long finish shows exemplary detail. With the right dish –and I’m thinking some kind of braised meat stew, it should be quite an aristocratic pairing. Has a definite style, and I can see some lovin’ it, or some just thinking it old. $30.

‘01 Fontalloro — medium garnet, with a big, perfumed nose of dark berry, red flowers, and toast. Entry is restrained, and while it delivers with elegance, it lacks impact. The fruit core is solid, and the structure is clearly delineated, but it stops short of bringing the concentration I’d like to see, so no “wow.” Nice, maybe even very nice, but for $34, that’s about the extent of it. I can’t help but wonder if the bottle is off, but it does fit into the Felsina house style…

‘99 Maestro Raro — fairly dark, and smellin’ great! Herb and green pepper underlay black pepper and smoky oak aromas. The attack is formidable, and it goes deep fast, while the acidity and rich, rich cassis and blueberry fruit hold fast to the frame. The finish is very long and super savory, with a perfect–absolutely perfect–balance of ultrafine tannins. Integration of these components is seamless, and I’ve had to revisit it several times even to paint a picture with this much detail… An excellent wine (all cab sauv, by the way) of certain pedigree and authority. $37, now that’s a hell of a deal for this quality.

‘97 Vin Santo — big nose of honeyed, toasted nusts, elderflower, and dried apricot. Thick palate with plenty of sweetness, but also good definition and complexity. Notes of golden raisin round out the flavor profile, while acidity sweeps ’round to keep it alive and engaging. Very good. 500ml, $29.50.